Friday, May 4, 2012

Johannesburg-Soweto-Pretoria


Hey Everyone,

Well, I did not jump off any bridges or climb any mountains this past week.  I did visit Johannesburg though.  A couple weeks ago I was talking with a roommate, and we decided that we have to see Joburg to truly have seen the country.  Many people recommended going to the city, but I was never sure if I could fit it in to my weekends which are numbered.  After learning so much about this country and living here for the past three months, I realized I had to take the pilgrimage to “Gold City.”

View of the Johannesburg skyline.

There are some themes that come up when people speak of Joburg.  Among those themes are that it is a tough and dangerous city.  Those reasons were initially the main reason for not planning on making it to the city.  It really is not a tourist city either because of those reasons.  The city has such a strong history, and it has played such a huge role in the development on the country.  We got a group together and went over our long weekend this past weekend.  Last Friday, April 27th, was Freedom Day which is the anniversary of the elections in 1994.  This past Tuesday was international employee appreciation day.  America has a separate labor day.  That gave us the opportunity, so we took it. 

Johannesburg was built on the gold mines.  Thousands of people would ride the train and work in the mines to provide for their families.  Part of the reasoning of Apartheid was to keep a cheap labor force to work in the mines.  Many of the men in the family would take the train and live at the mines on contract for about six months at a time.  We decided to take the train, because it was cheap and symbolic.  I had never ridden a train before, and why not in Africa.  The train from PE to Joburg is an 18 hour trip, so long.  It was cramped, hot, loud, and difficult to sleep.  I had a good time though.  Our group took up the time by reading and playing games with each other, but that is not what the other travelers did.  Many times, there would be spontaneous gospel singing which was very cool.  Yes, there were some interesting characters, and some heated situations amongst other riders which caused for some worrisome situations.  We made it fine; the ride back was actually a full 24 hours because the train broke down, so we were stuck in Bloemfontein for a few extra hours.  That’s Africa for you.

The train we rode.

A good friend of ours, Anga, which we met on our second day here, accompanied us on the trip.  This proved to be beneficial in countless ways.  His mother tongue is Xhosa, so he was able to do the talking and interpret for us in sticky situations.  He saved us peace of mind and probably money many times. 

We took a tour of Johannesburg and Soweto (South West Township) one day.  We were able to see the whole area which has so much history and life to it.  Soweto is the largest township in South Africa, and because of this there have been many historical protests and events that have taken place there.  We got the chance to see Nelson Mandela’s current house in a Suburb of Johannesburg along with his past home in Soweto.  His past home is a small museum, situated on Vilakazi Street which is the only street in the world that has had two Nobel Peace prize recipients live on the street.  Archbishop Desmond Tutu who won the award in 1984 still lives about a block away from Mandela’s old home.  The hospital in Soweto boasts that it is the biggest in the Southern hemisphere.  It holds 5,000 beds, so it is quite large.  While driving through Soweto we were able to see some of the barracks that use to house miners.  There was also some drag racing that we got to see by chance.  There was just so much going on while we were driving through.  Unlike in Soweto, we were able to walk around a bit in downtown Johannesburg. 

Soweto

We also toured Pretoria one day which is a short 40 minutes from Johannesburg.  Pretoria is an interesting city because it is about 67% white where South Africa is only about 10% white.  The Union building where the executive offices are held was very cool to see.  There have been some big speeches that have taken place in front of the building, so finally seeing that was amazing. 

Union Building

There were some hectic situations during our trip.  One day we were in downtown, we were looking to go back to our hostile.  Our main transportation here is by using the Kombi system that is used in South Africa.  We are almost always the only white people that use them.  We decided to walk a couple blocks to the ‘rack’ where the kombis congregate.  The kombis, which everyone call taxis, where in a big parking ramp that smelled like urine.  A smell that is all too familiar to many areas in SA.  This was probably the most on edge I was during the trip because there was gambling, selling of things that were clearly stolen and loud music blaring while people search for the taxi that will take them the direction they want.  The nine of us stuck out as usual, but Anga was able to do the negotiating for us and we were able to find a kombi that took us our way.  The train ride back also provided a tense situation.  Late in the night there was an argument in our cart.  There was an extended family in the cart with us, and particularly a young man that was intoxicated.  There was lots of yelling in Afrikaans, so we couldn’t understand what was being yelled.  Anga can understand Afrikaans a little, so he was able to get the main subject of the fight.  The main thing I got was that the man was angry at his wife/girlfriend and tried taking his son.  He actually threw many of their belongs out the window.  The most tense the fight got was when the man went out of the cart for a while.  When he returned, he had a broken bottle in his hand.  He only got a couple rows in when one of the mamas pushed and punched him to leave.  He did and the situation cooled shortly after.  Don’t worry mom, our group was ignored the entire time, and the fight never escalated to put us in danger.

View in front of Union building.

One of the museums we visited was the Apartheid museum in Johannesburg.  It was truly one of the best museums I have ever been to.  We ended up spending a few hours just looking through all that was there.  Throughout our time here, I have learned so much about Apartheid, but the vast compilations of artifacts and videos was absolutely astounding.  I was able to gain an even greater amount of what went on during that time, and everyone was shocked from the museum.  One of the nights we watched the movie District 9.  If any of you have seen it before, you know that it is set in Johannesburg.  The movie is a science-fiction movie where there are aliens that live in the townships of Johannesburg.  I had seen the movie before, but watching I was shocked to see the similarities between the movie and Apartheid.  There are forced removals, laws that segregate the aliens and humans, and township life.  The director did a great job of emulating that era of South Africa.  It is a Hollywood production, so there is an obvious cinematic touch to it.  I would recommend watching it because I think it gives the best look into what it was like during Apartheid through a modern lens. 

The trip was one of my favorite adventures I have had during my time here.  Thanks for reading.  I appreciate all the support.  I am on the home stretch as there are three weeks left for me in South Africa.  I plan to make the best of them, and look forward to seeing you all when I return.

Cheers,
Bobby 

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